Bearclaw Custom Native Jewelry

Tips & Tricks

Jewelry Tips

Hand Engraving–Silver and Gold
CleaningMeasurmentDiamonds & Stones
Hand Engraving
look for these marks of quality
-Depth of cut is extremely important but also an even ‘V’ in the cut,
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-it is extremely easy to ‘Scratch’ the metal and difficult to ‘ engrave’
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Look for smooth curves and not jerky on the outside of the cut  ‘ V’ wall
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Lines that are continuous and don’t stop and start again
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-balance in the design, not only left to right or top to bottom but if there are more than one of a shape then are both the same size ,same curve etc…?
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Are there any sharp ends where the line wasn’t finished  well?
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelryHave the lines been buffed out with too much polishing and rounded the top edge of the cut ?
 Silver & Goldjewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Although Silver and Gold are pure metals they are alloyed  with others to add strength , resilience or to soften jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-If you are buying Sterling Silver there should be a stamped image on the piece to indicate this ,such as ‘ Ster’, or ‘Sterling’ or ‘.925’. jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-The ‘.925’ indicates that it is 92 1/2% pure silver.  The other 7 1/2% could be combinations of copper ,zinc , nickel , tin  or ‘whatever’.
-I am partial to Canadian Silver for engraving and Italian Silver for chains ( being a good B.C. West coast Canadian
Native Italian boy ..What do you expect? )

jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Gold is also alloyed ,with copper and silver mostly jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-There should also be a stamp to  indicate the karat quantity, such as 10k ,14k,18k ,22k or 24k. If there isn’t a stamp the item may be gold plated on top of copper, silver or another base metal. jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-A stamp is your best guarantee 

Or ‘ How to fight Air and Dirt’
Here is a mixture that will clean Jewelry !Works well with gold-filled, brass, German silver , ( nickle ) , and sterling silver

1 Tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 tablespoon dish soap
1 cup water
1 piece of aluminum foil
1.- Heat water in microwave for 1-2 minutes
2.- cut aluminum foil and place on bottom of a small bowl ( cereal etc )
3. Pour the water into the bowl, place salt, soda and dish soap into bowl – ( mix )
4. place jewelry in bowl for 5 to 10 minutes
5. rince jewelry in cool water and dry with a soft cloth
6. discard water etc and start frewsh next time

jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Lots of good cleaners and lots of gimmicks  out on the market. I won’t endorse or knock any product…
I’ll just say the T.V. ad type cleaners may not be as good as some product that a professional jeweler has used for 40 years, so I’d ask them first

jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-10k has the most strength but also the highest copper content and 24k is the weakest but also is 99.9 % gold jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-We find 14k for rings and bracelets offer the highest gold content without sacrificing the needed strength  and resilience for these items
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-If you don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner it is still possible to get the dirt out and  a lovely shine back on your jewelry.
Tarnish can be beaten by using a store bought cleaner and following the directions but if you want a quick ‘home remedy’ method a soft cloth  or a toothbrush, (preferably an old one ),  and dish soap or toothpaste will also  do the trick ,but read the  cautions below tips by bearclaw jewelry-Dirt inside all those little areas can also be beaten at home If the item is just gold or silver and/or a diamond then you can heat the jewelry in a glass container on the stove in water and dish soap.  Don’t bring it to a boil but just get it warm/hot and clean the crevices with the toothbrush.

jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelryCaution should be taken when applying heat. Although you are dealing with ‘rocks’ most are  not very forgiving.

If there is an inclusion or crack the heat may split it further just like a cracked windshield, so be careful.

jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-To be safe you should not heat any stone except diamonds jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Soaps should not be used with : Amber,Iolite,Opals,Pearls or Peridots jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Cleaners should not be used with Amber,Coral,Emerald,Iolite,Opals,Pearls, Peridots,Tanzanite,Topaz or Turquoise. jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Steam and Ultrasonic cleaners can be used with Alexandrite,Diamonds,Ruby, Sapphire, Spinel ,and Zircons.


If in doubt a professional jeweler would obviously be your best bet for your precious and possibly  irreplaceable item.

It would be best if you stopped by a  jeweler and had your finger sized but if you can’t, then  here are some tricks. For Rings, if you don’t know the size you can always trace the inside of one that does fit onto a piece of paper and fax
it to us or wrap a piece of paper strip, ( about the width of a pencil ), around your finger and mark that as well.
For bracelets you can do the same, measure your wrist loosely and then minus 1/2″,( 1 cm )for the proper bracelet size.
Here are some lengths for a 1/4″ paper strip not a piece of string ring size inch mm 3 – 1-3/4″ – 44 4 – 1-13/16″ – 46 5 – 1-15/16″ – 49 6 – 2-1/16″ – 52 7 – 2-5/32″ – 54 8 – 2-1/4″ – 57 9 – 2-3/8″ – 60 10 – 2-1/2″ – 63 11 – 2-9/16″ – 65 12 – 2-19/32″ – 67 13 – 2-3/4″ – 70 14 – 2-7/8″ – 73 15 – 3″ – 76 half sizes can easily be figured in metric but change fractions to /32″ for closest guess

Diamonds and Stones

Precious and semi-precious stones come in many different classifications which increase or decrease the value.
Just like buying a car..type is important but if it’s damaged the value decreases Diamonds adhere to the 4 c’s regulated by the GIA,  Gemological Institute of America.
The four ‘C’s are:

Color – diamond color chart
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-D,E ,F, grade – colorless,
D is extremely rare jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-G,H,I,J, near colorless ,
G,H are rare white to white
and excellent color. jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-I,J,are slightly tinted white
but still reflect light well jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-K,L,M, are faint yellow jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-N,O,P,Q,R, very light yellow jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-S,T,U,V,W,X,Y , are light yellow jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-Y,Z, are fancy yellow

iamond parts and pieces
 A cut will determine to a large degree the brilliance of a diamond . The symmetry of a cut allows the maximum reflection of light.  Some cuts available include round, Oval, pear, heart,marquise,and emerald

Clarity diamond clarity chart

Clarity determines inclusions,(cracks) or flaws the GIA grading scale contains 6 classifications
jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-F – flawless , no inclusions seen under 10x magnification, extremely rare jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-IF – internally flawless -insignificant flaws under 10x magnification jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-VVS1 & VVS2-very very slight inclusions, difficult to see under 10x magnification.
This is a,’very very good quality’ gradejewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-VS1 & VS2 – very slight inclusions, minor inclusions under 10x magnification a common ‘very good quality’ grade jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-SI1 & SI2 – slightly included  -noticeable under 10x magnification  but still clean to the naked eye.
Still good quality grade jewelry tips by bearclaw jewelry-I1 , I2 & I3 – obvious inclusions usually visible to the naked eye
Carat Weight
The weight of the stone measured in  Carat weight,(not the same as Karat used in determining gold content)
Larger stones generally cost more per carat due to their rarity.
For example: a V V S with G-H color and good cut may sell for $1800 per carat if it was smaller than .10 carat weight- (1/10 ct ) and $6300 per carat if it was, lets say, a .90 carat stone, ( 9/10 ct )
All designs are original and property of Bearclaw Jewelry -Box 3264 Mission B.C., V2V 4J4, Canada- 1-604-614-1853
Bearclaw Jewelry offers custom native, American Indian jewelry, Authentic Gold platinum silver rings bracelets earrings pendants and more