Bearclaw Jewelry

Design Information

Everything is Custom done when requested .... email us

Design Information

There are several ways of doing a design and it all depends on what ‘look’ you would like as well as what is technically possible or best, including engraving, appliqué, cast or machine done.

There are also a few techniques that can be used to to make something standout, most of all inlaid chips, an acid patina or stippling are especially relevant.

1

design - gold falcon braceletdesign - grizzly ring golddesign - graver

Engraving

The metal is laid out flat and carved with a small chisel, called a ‘graver’ . It fits into the palm of your hand and is pushed.

Pro

Art, unique, stands out, (shines), negative impression

Con

Only slightly 3 dimensional, no patina or stone inlay possible

gravers

design - wolf belt buckle design - Raven Landing bracelet

2

mountain ringSee how a Mountain ring is made, here: 

BA3 Bear Claws in 14k gold on silver - 1" wide

BA2 3- 14k gold Grizzly paws appliqued on silver

See how a Bearclaw Bracelet is made, here: 

Appliqué

After cutting a shape from one piece of metal and applied, (soldered), to another, you then engraved it.

Pro

You can  add a 3rd dimension and set stones up to 4mm or can combine metals

Con

Straight more distinct edges than casting

mountain ring in gold mountain ring in goldMountain ring sample

bearclaw bracelet appliqued gold on silver cuffbearclaw bracelet appliqued gold on silver cuff

Bearclaw Bracelet sample

3

cobra cobra bearhead

Wax Casting

After Designing, a piece is carved from wax, a mold is made and the piece is cast and  detailed

Pro

You can produce 3 dimensional smooth surfaces

Con

You can not combine metals in a single cast. Also, it is more time consuming.

wax carving for Jewelry mold

cougar belt buckle wax carving for Jewelry moldcougar belt buckle wax carving for Jewelry mold

cougar belt buckle wax carving for Jewelry mold

4

cuff links blue knights motorcyle club

Design by Computer 

You can produce an exact replica from a drawing with precise detail

Pro

precision and detail

Con

 Not hand done, (unique), multiple steps in the procedure

Amulet Eagle Turtle Wolf Amulet Eagle Turtle Wolf

5.

design - Initials inscription

All Pieces are signed with our Mark

FMM – Frank & Marlene Marasco

6 eagle ring in gold

a

eagle ring in goldb

eagle ring in gold

c

What’s the difference between Appliqué , Engraving, Etching and Casting?

Engraving:  You carve into the metal with the chisels above. Engraved sample is ‘A’ on the left.

Appliqué: You cut out shapes from a sheet that are soldered on top of the basic ring blank. Picture ‘B’

Cast is a model that is cut from wax and then cast in an oven. Picture ‘C’

Etching is done with an acid that will eat away any design that is not covered or painted on. We do not do etching.

Casting is more labor intensive but gives more depth/ height. Engraving at times gives more detail and is a negative impression.

7comfort fit

comfort fit

What is a Comfort Fit Ring

The regular band has a slightly rounded edge from buffing, The comfort fit’s edge is much more rounded. Our standard manufactured comfort fit ring has the center of usually 1.6mm thick in the middle and the edge tapered to 1.2 mm and if cut open. It looks more like the shape of an eye with round corners.

8ring gauges

Metal Ring finger Gauges

How should I measure My Finger

Get measured by your local Jeweler with a ‘wide band ring gauge’.

This is important ! 

Most of our rings are a wide band stock, 3/8″, or the thinner 1/4″ .

The regular jewelers thin gauge will sit down into the crotch of your finger , while a wide band ring extends up to the bulbous part of the finger, which generally means a 1/2 size bigger.

9

feather bloodstone ring

mountain ring in 2 tone gold white and yellow

D and E

What does Domed and Tapered mean ? 
Domed

Domed means there is a curved surface and not flat in the direction of the knuckle to first finger joint…like a car tire.

Take a look at the right side of pictures ‘D’ and ‘E’ to see the curve.

10 tapered rings tapered rings

F and G

Tapered….

The ‘bottom’ or ‘back’ of the ring is a smaller width to allow for finger movement.

‘F’ and ‘G’ are tapered rings. See how the back side is not as wide as the top ring surface

11

Flying Hawk Inlay Medicine Wheel

Stone Inlay

An appliqué cavity is cut and soldered onto another piece. The cavity is filled with chips / crushed stone or gems

Pro

Multicolored possibilities, fills an irregular area

Cons

This design method can not be used on thin bracelets, which could possibly be hit and broken out

medicine wheel turquoise silver ring

12

horse and patina in silver

Patina

An appliqué is cut out and soldered onto another piece. The cavity is filled with an acid which turns the silver black.

Pro

It covers areas hard to reach or clean and a makes agood contrast effect

Con

It wears out in time as it is rubbed.

patina claw turquoise

13

feather emerald gold

A wolfpaw .50ct diamond

B

Oak leaf Ruby Sapphire Peridot DiamondC

Stone Setting

A few samples…

A and B   Claw setting where a 4 or 6 prong claw is soldered in for the stone

C.- Press fit, The stone and setting are the same diameter and the metal is rubbed over the stones edge

D and E. Holes are drilled and pins are soldered in

F.- Left side– a ‘cup’ called a bezel is soldered on for the stone to sit into

F.- right side – a small bit of metal is pushed over the stones edge to make a small round ‘bead’

Druby ring

E

Amolite Pendant

F

Feather Emerald 3 Sapphires

G

14metal content gold platinum 14k white yellow 18k 10k

What is the difference between silver, white and yellow gold and platinum ?

There is a very detailed chart on metal content and percentages for various golds ( rose, yellow, white 10k, 14k etc…)…….HERE

Top row- 14k White gold, 10k yellow and 18k yellow

Small Squares- Silver on top and Platinum on bottom with the hole.

Strips – 14k White and 14k Yellow Gold. Both un-buffed and ready for engraving

Gold Nugget as casting grain – 22k Yellow Gold

These are fairly close in color but generally just show the differences or similarities

15

gold bail pendant

A

feather pendant

B

hummingbird pendant

Cfeathers in silver with gold stem

D whale in gold

E

Other Things

A and B– Bails soldered on the back of pendants for chains

C.- The top is thin and bent around in a loop for the chain

D.- A piece is soldered on as part of the design and looped, (great for feathers)

E. A standard Jump Ring

F.- A wraparound ring style, more generic and flexible sizing

G.- Engraving on one of our suppliers 2 tone manufactured bands

H.- White gold mountain tops cut and soldered on to a yellow gold strip

I.- Stippling , many many dots

J. – Many of our designs have the traditional west coast cross-hatching incorporated into the border

double headed wrap around eagle ring

F

2 tone manufactured ring white and yellow gold ring

G ( manufactured rings here )

2 tone mountains white and yellow gold

H

tiger

I

COUGAR BRACELET

J

16

buffalo

K

ChBs2 Double Eagle Head Ends and 3 Cherokee Symbols, Warrior, Spiral of Life, Journey

Raven Landing bracelet

M

bordersN

What Borders and Ends are possible ?

These are just some samples of possible ring and bracelet ‘ ends ‘.

The most common is the cross-hatched space as in the long bracelet picture.

Eagle-head and Feather ends can be more creative with many heads or shapes possible.

This Gold Hawk bracelet ,’M’,shows the border with cross-hatching

Other possible ends and borders

Design Info and How It's done

Ring Shapes

These are some basic shapes as if the ring was streteched out flat.

18Barrette Backing

Spring Lever Barrette Backs

Stainless Steel

19

Opals Opals

What are the Opal like that you have ?

These are 2 pictures of the same 4 opals from a very slightly different camera angle.

We deal in basically 2 types of opals. The clear ‘ Fire’ Opals as on the right of each picture…and the ‘ Blue / Green ‘ Opals as on the left sides.

20

chain lengths and how they lay on a person chain lengths and how they lay on a person

 

 

 

 

 

( taken a few years ago…)

Chain Considerations

Where will the chain ‘sit’ on me ?

Have a look at the pictures on the left… from top to bottom the chain lengths are…18″,20″,22″,24″ and 26″.

Depending on style…

– Tiny = 2 – 5 grams
-small = 5 – 12 grams
– medium = 12 – 20 grams
– large = 20 to 40 grams
– huge = 40 to 60 grams
– humungous = 60 plus grams

21

brilliant cloth

How do you keep some metals from turning color 

Good Luck !!! The nature of all things is to react with it’s surroundings, such as air ,some better or worse than others. Also chemicals we come in contact with and body chemicals affect the metals. Have a peak at our ‘ Tips and Tricks  page for a more detailed explanation and solutions.

We keep our jewelry looking lovely at the various shows by using a Jeweler’s Buffing Cloth.

What Type of Clasps are used ?

Lobster claws are the most common but other are available

curb chain gold chain clasp lobster claw 14k 18k gold chain clasp lobster claw 14k 18k gold chain clasp lobster claw 14k 18k gold chain clasp lobster claw 14k 18k gold chain clasp lobster claw 14k 18k gold chain clasp lobster claw 14k 18k gold chain clasp lobster claw 14k 18k gold chain clasp box clasp claw 14k 18k

WHY DOES THIS RING OR CHAIN TURN MY FINGERS / NECK BLACK OR GREEN?

Any discoloration is chemical. Either from you, the ring, or something you have come in contact with. The metal is reacting to an outside chemical or from your body. Everyone’s body chemicals are different and certain combinations react with one another.

Some reasons are listed below.
  • Lower karat gold, (9k, 10k), has more copper alloy.
  • The body eliminates foods with lots of salt and preservatives. Perhaps a mild nitric acid is being produced.
  • Polishing compound is present. Wash with hot water and dish soap.
  • Silver reacts differently on everyone. It reacts at different times on the same individual, depending on body chemistry.
  • Some people react after having garlic and other spices.
  • Some prescription drugs change the body chemistry. Chlorine should always be avoided! (Swimming pools).
  • The jeweler will quench in a pickle after soldering. Some acid could still be trapped , but can leach out after. Inside buffing is required.
Solutions
  • Clean with hot water and dish soap.
  • Ask a jeweler to clean the inside.
  • Coat the inside with clear nail polish or lacquer.
  • Never wear your jewelry using chemicals, (chlorine, paint thinners and solvents, cleaning liquids, bleach etc…)
  • Use a bi-metal lining on rings with a high karat gold on the inner surface.

But…Unfortunately metals and acids react and “such is the nature of silver and gold”.

Cheap jewelry items have a high copper content and turn fingers green, such as gold which is not 14k or better, Cheap Mexican silver may be alloyed with tin or aluminum and turn fingers black. These are just a few of the most common reasons.

But…. there are also people who are just allergic to silver or gold. Are you one of them ?

All designs are original and property of Bearclaw Jewelry -Box 3264 Mission B.C., V2V 4J4, Canada- 1-604-614-1853
©1987-2017
Bearclaw Jewelry offers custom native, American Indian jewelry, Authentic Gold platinum silver rings bracelets earrings pendants and more