Design Information

There are several ways of doing a design and it all depends on what ‘look’ you would like as well as what is technically possible or best, including engraving, appliqué, cast or machine done.

There are also a few techniques that can be used to to make something standout, most of all inlaid chips, an acid patina or stippling are especially relevant.

What’s the difference between Appliqué , Engraving, Etching and Casting?

Engraving:  You carve into the metal with the chisels above. Engraved sample is ‘A’ on the left.

Appliqué: You cut out shapes from a sheet that are soldered on top of the basic ring blank. Picture ‘B’

Cast is a model that is cut from wax and then cast in an oven. Picture ‘C’

Etching is done with an acid that will eat away any design that is not covered or painted on. We do not do etching.

Casting is more labor intensive but gives more depth/ height. Engraving at times gives more detail and is a negative impression.

ENGRAVING

The metal is laid out flat and the design carved with a small chisel, called a ‘graver’ . It fits into the palm of your hand and is pushed.

Pro

Art, unique, stands out, (shines), negative impression

Con

Only slightly 3 dimensional, no patina or stone inlay possible

2. – APPLIQUÉ

After cutting a shape from one piece of metal and applied, (soldered), to another, you then engraved the design.

Pro

You can  add a 3rd dimension and set stones up to 4mm or can combine metals

Con

Straight more distinct edges than casting

Wax Casting

A piece is carved from wax, a mold is made and the piece is cast and cleaned / detailed

Pro – 3 dimensional smooth surfaces

Con– can’t combine metals in a single cast, more time consuming.

Machine/ Computer Design

An exact replica can be produced from a drawing with exact detail

Pro– precision and detail

Con– Not hand done, (unique), 2 dimensional depth, many steps in the procedure

All Pieces are signed with our Mark

FMM – Frank & Marlene Marasco

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How should I measure My Finger

Get measured by your local Jeweler with a ‘wide band ring gauge’. This is important.Most of our rings are a wide band stock, 3/8″, or the thinner 1/4″ .

The regular jewelers thin gauge will sit down into the crotch of your finger , while a wide band ring extends up to the bulbous part of the finger, which generally means a 1/2 size bigger.

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D and E

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F and G

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Stone Inlay

An appliqué cavity is cut and soldered onto another piece. The cavity is filled with chips / crushed stone or gems

Pro

Multicolored possibilities, fills an irregular area and can fit into any design shape

Cons

This design method can not be used on thin bracelets, which could possibly be hit and broken out

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Patina

An appliqué is cut out and soldered onto another piece. The cavity is filled with an acid which turns the silver black.

Pro

It covers areas hard to reach or clean and a makes agood contrast effect

Con

It wears out in time as it is rubbed.

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A

B

C

Stone Setting

A few samples…

A and B   Claw setting where a 4 or 6 prong claw is soldered in for the stone

C.- Press fit, The stone and setting are the same diameter and the metal is rubbed over the stones edge

D and E. Holes are drilled and pins are soldered in

F.- Left side– a ‘cup’ called a bezel is soldered on for the stone to sit into

F.- right side – a small bit of metal is pushed over the stones edge to make a small round ‘bead’

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A

B

C

D

E

Other Things

A and B– Bails soldered on the back of pendants for chains

C.- The top is thin and bent around in a loop for the chain

D.- A piece is soldered on as part of the design and looped, (great for feathers)

E. A standard Jump Ring

F.- A wraparound ring style, more generic and flexible sizing

G.- Engraving on one of our suppliers 2 tone manufactured bands

H.- White gold mountain tops cut and soldered on to a yellow gold strip

I.- Stippling , many many dots

J. – Many of our designs have the traditional west coast cross-hatching incorporated into the border

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K

M

N

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( taken a few years ago…)

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Metal Ring finger Gauges

What Type of Clasps are used ?

Lobster claws are the most common but other are available

WHY DOES THIS RING OR CHAIN TURN MY FINGERS / NECK BLACK OR GREEN?

Any discoloration is chemical. Either from you, the ring, or something you have come in contact with. The metal is reacting to an outside chemical or from your body. Everyone’s body chemicals are different and certain combinations react with one another.

Some reasons are listed below.

• Lower karat gold, (9k, 10k), has more copper alloy.
• The body eliminates foods with lots of salt and preservatives. Perhaps a mild nitric acid is being produced.
• Polishing compound is present. Wash with hot water and dish soap.
• Silver reacts differently on everyone. It reacts at different times on the same individual, depending on body chemistry.
• Some people react after having garlic and other spices.
• Some prescription drugs change the body chemistry. Chlorine should always be avoided! (Swimming pools).
• The jeweler will quench in a pickle after soldering. Some acid could still be trapped , but can leach out after. Inside buffing is required.

Solutions

• Clean with hot water and dish soap.
• Ask a jeweler to clean the inside.
• Coat the inside with clear nail polish or lacquer.
• Never wear your jewelry using chemicals, (chlorine, paint thinners and solvents, cleaning liquids, bleach etc…)
• Use a bi-metal lining on rings with a high karat gold on the inner surface.

But…Unfortunately metals and acids react and “such is the nature of silver and gold”.

Cheap jewelry items have a high copper content and turn fingers green, such as gold which is not 14k or better, Cheap Mexican silver may be alloyed with tin or aluminum and turn fingers black. These are just a few of the most common reasons.

But…. there are also people who are just allergic to silver or gold. Are you one of them ?

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