Bearclaw Jewelry

Making a Mountain Ring

Making a Mountain Ring

mountain ring gold on silver large gold sun and sun rays

mountain ring gold on silver large gold sun and sun rays with .03ct diamond

This is what I am going to show you how to make…..An Appliquéd gold on silver , engraved, domed and tapered Mountain Ring

Stone setting is another trick to be done later.

Making a Mountain Ring - silver , with 14k white gold in the center left and 14k yellow gold

This shows the difference between silver and gold. The 2 outside strips are silver , with 14k white gold in the center left and 14k yellow gold on the center right.

All are un-buffed

Making a Mountain Ring - 14k White gold, 10k yellow and 18k yellow - Platinum , 22k and casting grain

Top row- 14k White gold, 10k yellow and 18k yellow

Small Squares- Silver on top and Platinum on bottom with the hole.

Strips – 14k White and 14k Yellow Gold. Both un-buffed and ready for engraving

Gold Nugget as casting grain – 22k Yellow Gold

These are fairly close in color but generally just show the differences or similarities

Making a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

 

Making a Mountain Ring – cutout

1. The ring blank is cut from a sheet of silver using a bench hook and jewelers saw

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

Making a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

2. The mountains are marked and cut out from what ever gold piece I have that fits

Matching Mountain wedding rings are cut from one piece of gold so the mountains will match and fit together like a puzzle.

3.The sun is punched from small scrap, (everything is used)

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

3a. The edges are filed in a vice and then sanded to 400 grit sandpaper
Making a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 4.. Just checking to see if they fit OK.
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

Making a Mountain Ring

Soldering and cleaning

5.. Each piece is coated with a pickle which cleans it, helps the solder to flow and reduces scaling, ( it turns white )

The (3) pieces are laid out on the soldering mesh

Small solder chips are placed throughout the top pieces

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ringjewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

Procedures/MountainRing/MountainRing07a.JPG

6.. Solder is applied to the underside of the top pieces,until it flows…the piece is cleaned with a wire wheel ( as in step 7) then re-coated with flux and placed on the ring blank. Everything is soldered together as one inseparable unit… and quickly thrown into a hot acid bath
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

7.. A wire wheel cleans off some of the scale

( picture shows one unclean and one cleaned )

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 8. It is buffed , ( and buffed), to remove all the scale. The pre-buffing also assures that the piece is not over buffed after being engraved
Making a Mountain Ring - gravers for engraving jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ringjewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring
Making a Mountain Ring – detailing

9.It is then heated and held in the Jewelers cement on ‘the block’ and the sun rays and mountains are hand carved with the engraving tool, called a ‘graver’

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 10.The back is then buffed again to remove any scratches
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

Making a Mountain Ring buff and bend

11. The strips are taken off the block, cleaned with varsol, and pound round on a dapping block, or rounded on a ring bender.

12.First in a larger concave surface with a leather strap for protection…and then in a smaller one with a round wooden dowel until the ends almost touch

12b. The ring is bent with the pliers until the ends match precisely

Making a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 13. The ends are filed perfectly flat and then it is all coated with the flux and heated , ready for soldering together
Making a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 13b. Small solder chips are laid on top ready for heat
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 13c. The solder flows at a dull red heat..and…
Procedures/MountainRing/MountainRing07a.JPG 14. Quickly into the acid bath and then washed with water.
Making a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring
Making a Mountain Ring – finishing

15.Cleaned with the wire wheel to remove the scale again

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 16.Onto the ring mandrel to pound it completely round
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 17. The outside and inside solder joint is sanded on the sanding sleeves and then the inside is buffed shinny
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring Making a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 18. It is brought down to the requested size as the press puts the dome in the ring.
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

19. The taper is marked and then cut or ground off on the belt sander. (silver I grind but I cut gold with a saw and every bit of dust and scrap is saved )

20.The sharp edge produced by the sander is filed off… or it will cut the sanding sleeve, ( next step )

jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 21. The outside taper is sanded as well as the inside edge. These are rounded to produce a comfort fit.
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ringjewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 22. Then the buffing for the inside edge , the outside edge and the main face of the ring
jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring 23. It is boiled in hot water and soap, cleaned in the ultrasonic, cleaned with a tooth brush, ultrasonic again and wiped dry.
Making a Mountain Ring - mountain ring gold on silver large gold sun and sun rays with .03ct diamondMaking a Mountain Ring - jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring jewelry methods how to make a appliqued mountain ring

The finished project.

If a stone is to set then a hole is drilled 1/2 to 2/3 rd’s the stone size, the diamond setting bit is used to make the seat, the stone is placed in and the edge is beveled in to hold the stone or set with beading tools.

The inside is cleaned and rebuffed and the ring is cleaned again as in step 23

There are about 12 basic methods of stone setting I have used and an explanation would take another few pages…so I will leave that until another day.

All designs are original and property of Bearclaw Jewelry -Box 3264 Mission B.C., V2V 4J4, Canada- 1-604-614-1853
©1987-2017
Bearclaw Jewelry offers custom native, American Indian jewelry, Authentic Gold platinum silver rings bracelets earrings pendants and more